Chef's News - Chef David Bull's Table at the Bolla
Chef David Bull's Table at the Bolla (Alcoholian Blog (www.alcoholian.com) - May 12, 2009)
Warning: This is not your normal restaurant review. As the most glorious spousal unit puts it, “you are normally snarky, not effusive”. Normally, I don’t get a chance to get Chef’s comments on the dishes either.
This is something new and different. This dining experience was second to none. Please join Chef David Bull and me as we talk our way through this marvelous dinner.
Amuse-Bouche: Mozzarella Panna Cotta , Fritto Misto, Basil seeds, with Basil Oil
JohnGL: I get asked this question a lot, so I will pose it to you: What’s the purpose of an amuse-buche? And this one in particular?
Chef Bull: A quick start to a meal with interest and tremendous texture. The soft, almost chewy, panna cotta is contrasted by the crunchy, crispy fried vegetables. This peaks the diner’s interest, while offering subtle notes of simplicity.
JohnGL: Chef Bull, you surprised us with this second amuse-bouche of chilled cantaloupe soup with speck, almonds, and goat cheese custard. What were you trying to convey?
Chef Bull: Served in a tall shot glass, this ice cold melon soup signifies early summer in a fun and creative way. Diced custard floats within the soup and acts a surprise, while crispy paper thin slices of speck offers crunch and a just the right amount of smoke and salt. These components, along with the toasted almonds, combine to highlight the natural sweetness of the cantaloupe.
Flash Cured Bronzino with Arugula Salad & Red Pepper Oil
JohnGL: I’ve never had bronzino before, but this was fantastic with the crisp, peppery arugula contrasted with the smooth, tenderness of the fish.
Chef Bull: This dish exemplifies a beautiful white fish by simple and straightforward ingredients. Bitter arugula, spicy pepper oil, and crisp garlic all are robust and direct on their own, but when combined together with the fish, the dish takes on a complex fascinating flavor of textural contrast and sweet fish.
Beef Tartare with Spring Ramps, Aioli, & Parmesan Oil
JohnGL: You really surprised everyone a second time — this dish wasn’t on our tasting menu. How did this come about?
Chef Bull: When beef tenderloin is used as a main course, often the remaining pieces can be turned into a beef tartare appetizer. This is a preparation that doesn’t last long in the kitchen as the cooks are quick to make a tartare snack. This dish was based around the wonderful season of ramps… For only a few weeks in the spring, ramps are available, and this dish exemplifies the spicy sweetness of these beautiful onions. We blanch the leaves to wrap the tartare, pickle the white parts and also make an aioli. The beef stands up to the ramps, while a Parmesan oil brings the dish to an entirely new level of salty richness.
Roasted Beet Salad with Warm Camembert & Amaretto Crème Fraîche
JohnGL: When I got the invitation to this Chef’s Table dinner, you hadn’t quite finalized the menu, yet there was a vague reference to a beet salad. Beets can be iffy for some people including my most glorious spousal unit. What caused you to choose it?
Chef Bull: I created this dish several years ago, because I hated beets! I wanted to challenge myself to come up with a dish that I liked and if I was successful I knew it would be a hit – if I was able to enjoy beets then maybe the rest of the world could as well. The beets in this application must be perfectly cooked allowing the natural sugars to reach their maximum level.
Robiola Agnolotti with Olio Verde & Crisp Squash Blossom
JohnGL: I think famous chefs buy up all the great, fresh squash blossoms. The ones I see in markets have usually gone over the edge. I’ve always wanted to do a dish that featured them — they’re just so cool. And this pasta was magnificent.
Chef Bull: Filled pasta is one of the most comforting categories of food. It creates a sense of home and is generally very easy to make and has limitless possibilities. This particular dish uses an incredible cheese from Italy and uses crispy squash blossoms to contrast the soft cheese and the chewy pasta.
Seared Sea Scallops with Brown Butter & Pine Nut Crema
JohnGL: I’ve been doing a few scallop dishes myself recently. I love their texture and sweetness. The other night Chef Josh Watkins, your former chef de cuisine at the Driskill Grill told us that a scallop dish was the only one he took with him to his new digs at the The Carillon. Are scallops a favorite of yours, too?
Chef Bull: I have always had a scallop appetizer on my menu, simply because they are versatile and are very easy to cook. I have found combining scallops with pork is a very distinct but natural combination. In this case the use of speck seems to instantly turn the scallop into sugary goodness.
Rack of Lamb with Celery Root Puree & Espresso Crust
JohnGL: My parents were from Croatia and lamb was a frequent dish on our dinner table when I was growing up. I loved it. Other kids I invited over for dinner didn’t much care for it though. I’ve certainly never had any cooked quite like this.
Chef Bull: Cooking the lamb at precisely 132 degrees provides a melt in your mouth texture. A silky smooth celery root puree, with chewy braised onions, compliments the delicate sweet gaminess of the lamb, while the espresso crust creates a distinct bitterness. Lamb often scares some folks from bad memories in the past, but when prepared correctly, lamb is a wonderful unique alternative.
JohnGL: Thank you for your insights. I greatly appreciate the time you have spent with us!
After personally serving us that wonderfully savory and tender lamb, Chef Bull headed back to the kitchen. This amazingly peachy sorbet palate cleanser was quickly placed before us soon afterward.
Fresh Peach Sorbet
Wonderfully smooth, cold, and just a little tart, it was just the thing to prepare our taste buds for this unbelievable dessert sampler:
Dessert Tasting!
Everyone could find something they liked on this tasting plate. Brownie, cannolo, berries, ice cream, cookies, you name it, it was right there in front of each of us. It was a great way to finish off a perfect evening of gastronomic extravagance!
If you would like a chance to experience the personal touches of Chef Bull, Please contact the friendly folks at Bolla at the Stoneleigh — they accept Chef’s Table reservations for parties of 8-14.
If you would like to take a crack at duplicating some of Chef Bull’s own dishes, check out his new interactive cookbook, Bull’s Eye on Food. It too, is something new and different. And wonderful.